West Bay Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: Two vintage railway carriages near the sea and harbour in the former West Bay station constitute this “delightful” venue. The cooking is sometimes seen as the weakest link (“they try hard, without really hitting the spot”), but most reports are upbeat, citing “above average food” in an “unusual and quirky setting”. Since our annual diners’ poll concluded, change is afoot with a new arrangement introduced in autumn 2022, which sees fine dining from chef Chris Chatfield’s seasonal menu in the newer ‘Beeching’ carriage, and relaxed dining in ‘Brunel’, from the First World War, with both menus available in the dog-friendly ‘Station House’.

2022 Review: This hip West Country tribute to East Asian casual dining serves “great food” in a “great atmosphere”, and is “even better with the new look post-lockdown”. The menu is constructed around dumplings filled with prime Dorset ingredients, backed up by a small selection of main and side dishes, and with sake options on the drinks list. It’s a formula that comes up trumps: “couldn’t get enough of the dumplings!”. (Note: despite the suggestion in the name, there’s no sushi on the menu.)

“Excellent fish, super-efficient service and a wonderful outlook on the beach” – three reasons to love this Jurassic Coast staple (est. 1991), and with siblings in West Bay and West Bexington; yes, the “seating is basic, but comfortable enough and with those views and the quality of the food, who cares?!” Top Tip – “look out for ‘Lobster Wednesday’! It’s the best deal on the coast!”.

Former The Pig alumnus Silvana Bandini (FOH) and ex-Bath Priory/Mandarin Oriental chef Chris Staines are behind this “hidden gem” – a “comfortable” hotel-restaurant, set in a characterful fourteenth-century building, and with an “attractive outside space”. The “delicious, sophisticated” small-plates menu is strong on SW produce and offers solid (fans would say “exceptional”) value.

2022 Review: Cass Titcombe's “small, cosy and friendly restaurant overlooking the village square” offers “just the perfect balance of everything”, say fans – whether that’s the much-foraged, Mediterranean-style food, or the fine interiors, courtesy of partner Louise. The duo also run an excellent shop, Brassica Mercantile, across the road, mixing homewares, foodie books and gourmet treats (including from Borough Market).

“What an unexpectedly good find!” – a 400-year-old cellar housing a “wine bar doing small plates of very good”, “fresh and locally sourced food”, alongside “enjoyable cocktails, mocktails”, “and a decent wine list described as ‘low intervention’”. “Service is efficient and unobtrusive”, “staff charming”, and “everyone is obviously enjoying themselves”. Owner Harriet Mansell also operated her stellar restaurant Robin Wylde near here until September 2023, at which time it closed as its lease expired. Harriet is currently looking for a new site, but may offer special evenings here in the meantime.

Try to nab a window seat – or in fine weather a place on the terrace – if you visit this brilliantly well-situated venue. All reports rate its “good fresh fish” from “rather a short menu” (which also features local beef as an alternative to the seafood). One supporter also muses that it’s “quite expensive – is it trading on its excellent position”?

“Without a doubt the best meal and experience for many years”… but Harriet Mansell had to call time on her “intimate” venture in September 2023 as the lease ran out. We received “outstanding” reports on her tasting menus and “excellent drinks pairs, both alcoholic and nonalcoholic” here, so have maintained a holding entry, as she is looking for a new site nearby and continuing to operate out of her Lilac wine cellar.

Set in a “perfect location overlooking Lyme Bay” from Lister Gardens, chef Mark Hix’s “terrific fish restaurant” is “a real oasis in Dorset”. It inspires a high volume of feedback and ratings would be even higher were it not for a minority opinion that “the culinary ideas remain sound, but the execution is wildly variable”. Last year, the celeb chef was forced to remove a wooden decking area installed during the pandemic, after losing a long battle with the local council.

2023 Review: This “quaint pub in the tiny village of Evershot” – immortalised as the ‘Sow and Acorn’ in Thomas Hardy’s ‘Tess of the d’Urbervilles’ – offers “beautifully presented, consistently good and interesting” food from Kenyan-born chef Robert Ndungu. It is the more informal sibling of Summer Lodge on the other side of the village, from the Red Carnation hotel group.

The Red Carnation group’s “very comfortable and traditional country house hotel is set in a time warp”, in prime Hardy Country (Evershot having been fictionalised as Evershead by the novelist, who also designed part of the hotel when he was an architect). The “very accomplished food” (“but at a high price!”) has some “nice touches”, with “desserts especially good”.

2021 Review: Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s TV tie-in kitchen – serving sharing boards and veggie tapas alongside more conventional starters and mains – is celebrating its twentieth anniversary, but feedback on it has seldom matched the hype, and is too limited last year for a rating. Such as we have says it’s OK value, but variable in performance.

A “great and reliable gastropub in an area that’s not blessed with super eating venues”, this sixteenth-century coaching inn, on the Devon/Dorset border, was a hit with all reporters this year; “prices are a bit high”, but given that the “lovely food” (modern British with a Euro slant) “keeps getting better”, no one seems to care too much.

2021 Review: This “lovely” thatched village pub opened in 1680 as an inn for passing travellers, and still makes a “delightful stopover” just off the A303 near Crewkerne. Ratings for its “high quality”, “classical” food have revived in the past 12 months under new owners backed by Nick Jones of Soho House (who also own the Beckford Arms at Tisbury and the Talbot Inn at Mells). Steve Hill and Michelle Payton, who ran it for 15 years, have retired to France.

2022 Review: With no social media presence as yet, and a hard-to-find name (lots of search results for Carluccio's – not helped by the fact that this location used to be one, and even repurposes the sign), we are presuming that Luciano Pierre White is relying on word of mouth – and his famous name – to get punters into his first solo restaurant. He's worked with Pierre Koffmann and the Adria brothers according to press quotes, and his father credits him with a great work ethic. An early-doors visit from a reporter noted it to be ‘very promising’ and another thought ‘the food’s great and the service will only improve’.

2023 Review: “Genuinely spectacular pizzas and gorgeous Italian food in the middle of a farmyard” in the picturesque Bride Valley may be “very off-road for many” – but this “interesting restaurant” with “friendly staff” is by all accounts well worth the trip. Brede Farm also hosts a cider press, micro brewery, campsite and live music.

A “great location, with outside seating” overlooking Chesil Beach; an Art Deco atmosphere, thanks to its original 1930s styling, and a “tasty” seafood-based menu combine to good effect at this pleasing seaside venue.

2022 Review: “Like being on the Med, only with local IPAs and bitters” instead of a carafe of wine or Campari – an “excellent” two-year-old seafood restaurant (primarily) where diners can enjoy “friendly service”, “superb” sharing platters and the “most extravagant Niçoise ever!”. After a meal, make sure to check out the neighbouring arts hub Town Mill.