Nine Elms, Chinese, Dim Sum Restaurant Guide

“Always enjoyable… especially the duck and the sesame toast!” – This marriage of Chinese chow with a gastropub vibe was originally dreamt up by group-creating genius Alan Yau (he of Wagamama, Hakkasan, Yauatcha and Busaba Eathai fame). But curiously, despite a cosy, heart-of-Soho setting and a steady stream of supportive feedback, it has never won a big following. Perhaps it’s the low-key interior or the “pub-average service”, but that’s really searching for criticism. Still, maybe the brand’s moment has come under new owners: after nearly 10 years it’s finally to spawn a sibling: a 185-cover space on Level 1 of Battersea Power Station. The aim here is more sleek and contemporary and necessarily less pub-like, so how much the pub element of its original concept will survive is unclear.