The Guardian
Grace Dent was puzzled and left a little flat by a visit to the new flagship dining option at the former Battersea Power Station, now a luxury shopping complex that is a “sumptuous paean to industrial chic” – but not the sort of place where people in this country head for special meals.
It is the first spin-off branch from Alan Yau’s Soho ‘Cantonese pub’ in Soho, and has “the dystopian address of Unit L1-003, Level 1, Phase 2”. But with £415 bottles of Vega Sicilia, Grace reckoned Duck and Rice Battersea “isn’t at all gastropub… much more quaffing an oligarch’s cellar with George Osborne while celebrating the glorious 12th”.
As for the food, main courses of the classic duck and rice house special and vegan glass noodles were “filling, but largely unmemorable” but “whopping great chilli king prawns, on the other hand, were possibly the highlight of the meal: fiery as heck, and in a fragrant pool of bright red, tamarind-heavy sauce”.
Grace Dent - 2025-09-07