RestaurantsLondonSW11

Harden's says

After nearly 10 years, this individual concept – a “British pub and chop suey kitchen” (originally dreamt up by Alan Yau, now in other hands) has spawned this large sibling – a 185-cover space on Level 1 of Battersea Power Station. The aim here is more sleek and contemporary and necessarily less pub-like, so how much of a family feel there will be is debatable: indeed the press release says: “Expect sleek, contemporary interiors that still feel warm and inviting—a departure from the cosy old-school pub aesthetic of its Soho sibling.”

survey result

Summary

£56
   ££
3
Good
2
Average
2
Average
* Based on a three course dinner, half a bottle of wine, coffee, cover charge, service and VAT.

“Always enjoyable… especially the duck and the sesame toast!” – This marriage of Chinese chow with a gastropub vibe was originally dreamt up by group-creating genius Alan Yau (he of Wagamama, Hakkasan, Yauatcha and Busaba Eathai fame). But curiously, despite a cosy, heart-of-Soho setting and a steady stream of supportive feedback, it has never won a big following. Perhaps it’s the low-key interior or the “pub-average service”, but that’s really searching for criticism. Still, maybe the brand’s moment has come under new owners: after nearly 10 years it’s finally to spawn a sibling: a 185-cover space on Level 1 of Battersea Power Station. The aim here is more sleek and contemporary and necessarily less pub-like, so how much the pub element of its original concept will survive is unclear.

For 34 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).

Have you eaten at The Duck & Rice?

What the Newspaper Critics are saying

The Guardian

Grace Dent was puzzled and left a little flat by a visit to the new flagship dining option at the former Battersea Power Station, now a luxury shopping complex that is a “sumptuous paean to industrial chic” – but not the sort of place where people in this country head for special meals.

It is the first spin-off branch from Alan Yau’s Soho ‘Cantonese pub’ in Soho, and has “the dystopian address of Unit L1-003, Level 1, Phase 2”. But with £415 bottles of Vega Sicilia, Grace reckoned Duck and Rice Battersea “isn’t at all gastropub… much more quaffing an oligarch’s cellar with George Osborne while celebrating the glorious 12th”. 

As for the food, main courses of the classic duck and rice house special and vegan glass noodles were “filling, but largely unmemorable” but “whopping great chilli king prawns, on the other hand, were possibly the highlight of the meal: fiery as heck, and in a fragrant pool of bright red, tamarind-heavy sauce”.

Grace Dent - 2025-09-07

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