Llyswen, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: This “fab former stately home” set in “beautiful grounds” in the Welsh countryside was restored by Laura Ashley co-founder Sir Bernard Ashley. Known for its “exceptional food”, it has lost two highly regarded head chefs in recent years, Nick Brodie and Sam Bowser, but still achieves strong ratings across the board.

This “top-of-the-range gastropub” on the edge of the Brecon Beacons National Park has long been one of the most famous in Wales for good reason and is “always busy” as a result. “If only there were a lot more rural pubs working so hard on all aspects of the dining experience” – from “impeccable and considerate service” that creates “a lovely, welcoming, characterful ambience” to “flawless meals with an excellent selection of brilliant-value wines”. The menu changes daily with seven starters and seven mains showcasing meat from the lowland hills, vegetables from nearby Penpont and fish delivered fresh from Cornwall.