Cumnor, Italian Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: “A foodie gem”, this well-known eighteenth-century pub in a village on the outskirts of Oxford has been going through a period of flux, hence we’ve removed a rating for the time being. High-profile chef Jon Parry joined in summer 2022, after our annual diners’ poll had concluded, having made a name for himself cooking over an open fire at The Mash Inn in Buckinghamshire, and declared his ambition to ‘turn The White Hart into something really special’. Four months later, owner Baz Butcher announced his intention to sell up and retire to France.

Even after two decades, they’re “constantly looking for ways to improve the menu” at this “good-value” staple – an attractive Continental brasserie in Jericho. The “eclectic” cooking tips its hat to the Mediterranean and “never disappoints” (“bring anyone and they will enjoy the meal”). Further joys include a “great deli” and expanded outdoor seating; as we went to press, they were finally due to open five long-awaited bedrooms, rounding out the package.

This “relaxed French bistro offering contemporary cuisine and good service” from chef-patron Pascal Wiedermann (ex-Terroirs) and his wife Laura has established a strong niche in Summertown, north of the city centre. A meal here is “always an enjoyable experience” – on a relatively “limited” menu, top billing goes to the steak frites.