Canary Wharf, Italian Restaurant Guide

Review: “We love the pistachio decor and the spacious seating”, say fans of this expanding chain, which had operated as a treasured old deli in Soho for over 75 years before starting to branch out as a pasta-chain in 2018. Impressions of it are something of a mixed bag though. To fans, its stylised outlets are “very convenient” and “can be trusted for a good-value and enjoyable experience with excellent food” (mostly pasta) in “sensible portions”. On the downside, though, are a fair number of diners to whom it’s a good concept whose execution is “perfectly fine but unexciting” (“starters good, pasta average-to-good, but compared with folk who had raved to me about other branches, I was left with a sense of ‘meh?’”). Still, their backers are enthusiastic and this year they added new locations in Greek Street and South Kensington.

1970s Roman cinema is the thematic backdrop to this June 2025 opening from the extrovert, French-owned Big Mamma (the people behind Gloria, Ave Mario, Circolo Popolare, Jacuzzi et al) which brings the group’s familiar OTT take on Italian dining to Canary Wharf – this time in a two-storey waterside setting with an open kitchen. Early views suggest it’s typically big on atmosphere and retro style with cocktails and gelato also featuring in the mix.

“Simple pasta done very well” lives up to the billing at this straightforward chain, which added a branch on Baker Street complete with outside terrace to its other three locations at the start of 2024. They are “nothing amazing, but the food is good, the service friendly, and it is a very easy option” when out and about or “when cooking just feels like a chore”.