Brightwell Baldwin, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: Chef-patron Olivier Bouet, who had presented “excellent rustic French cuisine” at this Chilterns village gastropub for five years, recently moved on, and the new owners reopened in July 2022, announcing their plans for an ‘eclectic modern British menu with South African influence and popular grill favourites. Every item on the menu will be made on the premises’. It’s a big change of style, hence for the time being we’ve left it unrated.

2022 Review: Despite its weird and wonderful decor, this lavishly decked out hotel not far from Oxford – a fixture of the area for over a quarter of a century – attracts relatively little feedback nowadays. It’s all still positive though, especially when it comes to the Thai dining room (there’s also a more traditional, British one). Service is “very engaged” and the classic twelve-dish sharing menu “well presented and flavoured food that reflects the cuisine”, without being “touristy”.

“A great little place with a changing menu” that “consistently delivers imaginative, tasty dishes” along with “terrific cocktails, a good wine list” – “and the beer is pretty good too”. Chef and co-founder Aimee Collins “shows creative thinking about flavours and textures rather than curiosity for the sake of it”; she teamed up with Rob McGregor & Sam Smith of nearby micropub ‘The Keep’ to open this crowdfunded venue, which was named with a nod to past Wallingford resident Agatha Christie. The trio have also opened a country pub, The Bear at North Moreton.