Axminster Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s TV tie-in kitchen – serving sharing boards and veggie tapas alongside more conventional starters and mains – is celebrating its twentieth anniversary, but feedback on it has seldom matched the hype, and is too limited last year for a rating. Such as we have says it’s OK value, but variable in performance.

A “great and reliable gastropub in an area that’s not blessed with super eating venues”, this sixteenth-century coaching inn, on the Devon/Dorset border, was a hit with all reporters this year; “prices are a bit high”, but given that the “lovely food” (modern British with a Euro slant) “keeps getting better”, no one seems to care too much.

“Without a doubt the best meal and experience for many years”… but Harriet Mansell had to call time on her “intimate” venture in September 2023 as the lease ran out. We received “outstanding” reports on her tasting menus and “excellent drinks pairs, both alcoholic and nonalcoholic” here, so have maintained a holding entry, as she is looking for a new site nearby and continuing to operate out of her Lilac wine cellar.

Set in a “perfect location overlooking Lyme Bay” from Lister Gardens, chef Mark Hix’s “terrific fish restaurant” is “a real oasis in Dorset”. It inspires a high volume of feedback and ratings would be even higher were it not for a minority opinion that “the culinary ideas remain sound, but the execution is wildly variable”. Last year, the celeb chef was forced to remove a wooden decking area installed during the pandemic, after losing a long battle with the local council.

“What an unexpectedly good find!” – a 400-year-old cellar housing a “wine bar doing small plates of very good”, “fresh and locally sourced food”, alongside “enjoyable cocktails, mocktails”, “and a decent wine list described as ‘low intervention’”. “Service is efficient and unobtrusive”, “staff charming”, and “everyone is obviously enjoying themselves”. Owner Harriet Mansell also operated her stellar restaurant Robin Wylde near here until September 2023, at which time it closed as its lease expired. Harriet is currently looking for a new site, but may offer special evenings here in the meantime.

Try to nab a window seat – or in fine weather a place on the terrace – if you visit this brilliantly well-situated venue. All reports rate its “good fresh fish” from “rather a short menu” (which also features local beef as an alternative to the seafood). One supporter also muses that it’s “quite expensive – is it trading on its excellent position”?

Hugo Guest (ex-of London haunts Sorella and Marksman) grew up in this hilltop Georgian vicarage, when his parents ran it as a B&B; fast-forward to 2020, and he and wife Olive set out to create an English-style ‘agriturismo’ on this 15-acre smallholding in a “delightful location” overlooking the Coly Valley. The victuals are split between casual kitchen suppers (for guests only) and more formal four-course fixed dinners (for all), and both showcase a “high standard of cooking”; stay on for the night to profit from the “excellent” breakfast.

A “pretty setting” in a fourteenth-century thatched inn adds to the charms of this restaurant-with-rooms, which is run by the St Austell Brewery, and an easy walk from Branscombe beach. The pub classics and more ambitious dishes achieve “very high standards” (“the lunch menu is particularly good value”) and the “quirky” spot offers a warm welcome too (also to dogs).

2021 Review: “A friendly, well-run pub” that's “owned by the Otter brewery, so the beer is always well kept”. On the food front, it “maintains a steady standard” (“tapas in the downstairs bar are always interesting and the full menu is served upstairs in a non-fancy environment”).

A “great location” – an “interesting renovation” of an Elizabethan mansion – contributes to the atmosphere of this Otter Valley outpost of the trendy Pig empire. Increased reports this year of rather “average” cooking (“unmemorable apart from the price”, ouch), though fans insist that, albeit “slightly hit-and-miss”, it’s “generally hit”.

2022 Review: This hip West Country tribute to East Asian casual dining serves “great food” in a “great atmosphere”, and is “even better with the new look post-lockdown”. The menu is constructed around dumplings filled with prime Dorset ingredients, backed up by a small selection of main and side dishes, and with sake options on the drinks list. It’s a formula that comes up trumps: “couldn’t get enough of the dumplings!”. (Note: despite the suggestion in the name, there’s no sushi on the menu.)

2022 Review: Cass Titcombe's “small, cosy and friendly restaurant overlooking the village square” offers “just the perfect balance of everything”, say fans – whether that’s the much-foraged, Mediterranean-style food, or the fine interiors, courtesy of partner Louise. The duo also run an excellent shop, Brassica Mercantile, across the road, mixing homewares, foodie books and gourmet treats (including from Borough Market).

2023 Review: Two vintage railway carriages near the sea and harbour in the former West Bay station constitute this “delightful” venue. The cooking is sometimes seen as the weakest link (“they try hard, without really hitting the spot”), but most reports are upbeat, citing “above average food” in an “unusual and quirky setting”. Since our annual diners’ poll concluded, change is afoot with a new arrangement introduced in autumn 2022, which sees fine dining from chef Chris Chatfield’s seasonal menu in the newer ‘Beeching’ carriage, and relaxed dining in ‘Brunel’, from the First World War, with both menus available in the dog-friendly ‘Station House’.

Former The Pig alumnus Silvana Bandini (FOH) and ex-Bath Priory/Mandarin Oriental chef Chris Staines are behind this “hidden gem” – a “comfortable” hotel-restaurant, set in a characterful fourteenth-century building, and with an “attractive outside space”. The “delicious, sophisticated” small-plates menu is strong on SW produce and offers solid (fans would say “exceptional”) value.

2021 Review: This “lovely” thatched village pub opened in 1680 as an inn for passing travellers, and still makes a “delightful stopover” just off the A303 near Crewkerne. Ratings for its “high quality”, “classical” food have revived in the past 12 months under new owners backed by Nick Jones of Soho House (who also own the Beckford Arms at Tisbury and the Talbot Inn at Mells). Steve Hill and Michelle Payton, who ran it for 15 years, have retired to France.

“Excellent fish, super-efficient service and a wonderful outlook on the beach” – three reasons to love this Jurassic Coast staple (est. 1991), and with siblings in West Bay and West Bexington; yes, the “seating is basic, but comfortable enough and with those views and the quality of the food, who cares?!” Top Tip – “look out for ‘Lobster Wednesday’! It’s the best deal on the coast!”.

“A great addition to the food scene in Somerset” – this two-year-old operation from chef-patron Nicholas Balfe (previously of the team behind Peckham’s Levan, now flying solo) occupies a converted bank, with a dining room in the original vault, open kitchen and diners’ counter. Foodwise, the focus is on reasonably priced modern bistro fare not a million miles from its original stablemate’s ‘bistronomy’. Other features include an outside terrace (for coffee or snacks) and rooms for a stay. Top Tip – “good value lunch menu”.

2022 Review: “Like being on the Med, only with local IPAs and bitters” instead of a carafe of wine or Campari – an “excellent” two-year-old seafood restaurant (primarily) where diners can enjoy “friendly service”, “superb” sharing platters and the “most extravagant Niçoise ever!”. After a meal, make sure to check out the neighbouring arts hub Town Mill.