The Daily Telegraph
Noting that outside our cities, actual restaurants (as opposed to pubs serving food) are relatively rare, William Sitwell saluted this “fine and dandy establishment” in a historical Warwickshire town centre, “with a menu that is distinctly English with some cheffy flourishes and a nod to sensible food trends”.
“The Bower champions the kind of honest ingredients I’m starting to see about the place; first trout then quail.”
A lamb dish with courgettes, tomatoes and artichoke paste also passed muster, “although there was a smear of black something across the plate, so hardened you’d need a stripping knife to get it off” – evidence that the chef had not completely freed himself from the tyranny of faddiness.
William Sitwell - 2024-08-18
