Alchemilla

"The second of two really good meals in Nottingham, the first from the wizard himself, Sat Bains, and this one from his disciple, Alex Bond. It is difficult to believe that the dining room was a Victorian coach house given that it is so far below street level, but whatever it was there is a certain amount of atmosphere created by its surroundings. The welcome was somewhat perfunctory, but the sommelier soon made up for that, guiding us through the decent wine list and suggesting that a good champagne (Gosset Grande Réserve) would serve well for the first half of the 10-course tasting menu. Three snacks boded well for the menu proper with chicken skin, mayo and chives and then delicious smoked cod’s roe and pea tart followed by an interesting combination of toasted lettuce, oyster and eucalyptus. Our first course was a winner - lovely raw scallop enhanced with sorrel juice and elderflower oil, and the next, strong but well-balanced tastes of mushroom ketchup on rich and meaty shiitake and cured pork fat, immediately showed that a bold approach was being taken. A surprising upgrade of celeriac, which can be bland, but here, cooked in goat’s curd with two kinds of garlic and a sauce split with balsamico provided more evidence of chef’s sense of adventure. The white asparagus, happily appearing more frequently these days, was roasted lightly in yeast butter and there was a thin yeasty wafer giving a satisfying crunch. Seared salad matched the lovely tender beef tartare, but we felt that the chimichurri could have been a touch spicier. The next two dishes were outstanding - an eel dauphinoise with horseradish, a heavenly buttermilk and chive oil sauce with the eel coming through beautifully against the potato in a dish served at a perfect temperature to allow this to happen. Then some of the best hogget ever, showcasing the maturity of the meat and in combination with shakshuka and black olive caramel providing an example of why Alex Bond is rated as the chef to watch in the 2019 Good Food Guide. An amusing and effective palate cleanser in the form of yuzu lollies and Swiss meringue paved the way for hay-infused custard with Bramley apple in burnt sugar - homage to Nottingham’s Goose Fair? In the next dessert the beetroot on its own would have deemed overstrong but matched with the chocolate and the clever salted liquorice we had a super tasty concoction. Finally, a beautifully fresh finish to the meal came with strawberries and olive oil jelly and camomile. This was extremely impressive and amazing value."