The Times
Tim Hayward reported on a “transformational” visit to a tiny restaurant in an old parade of shops in Jesmond, the follow-up to Cook House in nearby Ouseburn from Anna Hedworth, a former architect and self-trained cook (a term she prefers to chef) who has been compared to Alice Walters “in the glory days of Chez Panisse”.
Dish after dish – grilled ox heart “so perfect it takes your breath away”; Shetland mussels with Stornoway black pudding, Madeira and samphire; fried chicken wings with fish-sauce caramel; Basque cheesecake flavoured with finely ground black sesame – brought Tim to utter the word “genius” – “a word I think I’ve almost never used in a review”.
“What I need to communicate is not what’s available or even necessarily what I ate, but the absurd talent of the individual,” he eulogised. “Anna Hedworth’s cooking is that good. It seduces entirely.”
Tim Hayward - 2025-02-09
Drinks
Extras
