The Times
Charlotte Ivers enjoyed some inventive Thai-fusion cooking upstairs at Borough Market’s Globe pub – “the precise location of Bridget Jones’s flat in the films”, she pointed out.
But, she advised, you have to pick and choose your dishes carefully. Pluses included mutton curry, poached white fish, pork hung ley curry and “pleasingly hot” Shan meatballs. Not so successful were chilli margarita, coconut choc-chip bao bun and white corn ribs with coconut relish, all of which were too sweet, while Sussex veg som tam was too wet.
Charlotte was also amused at the menu’s description of the Shan meatballs as “Ikea-style” and “cola-glazed”: “Is it not the ultimate triumph of globalisation to sit in rainy Britain and eat Coke-glazed Thai chicken balls inspired by a Swedish furniture shop?” she mused.
Charlotte Ivers - 2025-02-02The Times
Giles Coren lavished the highest of praise on an “absolutely brilliant” northern Thai barbecue restaurant that began life in Brighton, popped up for a year on the edge of Borough Market and has now – in “a damned ballsy move, if you ask me” – opened a few doors up from Kiln, “the best northern Thai barbecue restaurant in the world”.
Giles was “blown away from the outset” by two starters. Shan meatballs of minced chicken in a sticky pork membrane were “just so thrillingly rustic, so not civilised, so unbearably delicious”, and were followed by “chips and curry sauce for the gods. No, for God”: a dish of fat chips “fried many times” for the thickest crunch he had ever encountered, topped with a rich and fiery Burmese mutton curry, then slathered with sour cream. “And that’s £11.70, by the way.”
Giles will be back to do justice to the rest of the “sexy, spicy” dishes on the menu, including a juicy char-grilled onglet steak served over a thick white curry sauce perfumed with ‘rose liquor’ – “a bit of a dislocation, the sweetish floral curry under my steak instead of a load of chips, but it was fascinating and new and absolutely not disgusting”.
Giles Coren - 2026-01-25
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