Evening Standard
David Ellis added his name to the fan club for Andrea Riva’s longstanding Italian spot, which has since 1990 seduced critics AA Gill and Fay Maschler, warblers Rod Stewart and Bryan Ferry, and gastrocelebs Rick Stein, Stanley Tucci and Simon Hopkinson.
The lavish greeting is part of the appeal and, noted David, “the clever thing is that newcomers are swiftly enveloped into the fold” – presumably he is talking about himself here.
But it’s not just about the atmosphere: “meals here are symphonies of simplicity”, David said, waxing lyrical over a plate of “astonishingly good langoustines”, some romanesco broccoli, and slices of richly spiced zampone sausages resting on lentils. “I have never eaten a bad mouthful here. Riva is Italian, only without the pizza, very little pasta, and tomato sauce hushed.”
David Ellis - 2026-01-04