Evening Standard
Katie Glass paid tribute to a King’s Road Italian that has served “real Tuscan food” since 1976 – a time before London went global and Chelsea was still “a village of toffs”. Nothing much has changed: there’s a Tony Soprano vibe, with charming waiters who fuss over guests who make a point of celebration family birthdays here.
“The food is the same mothering experience. Untouched by the ravages of time or food trends… It’s comfort food that doesn’t just take you back to the 1970s, but to the womb.”
Katie felt "almost guilty" reviewing the food – but "this isn’t destination dining. Everyone here lives nearby and has been feasting on the same hearty, yummy, forgettable food here for decades."
Katie Glass - 2026-07-05