Former Bob Bob Ricard chef Anna Haugh has opened her own restaurant; Myrtle in Chelsea offers "modern European cooking with an Irish influence, using the finest Irish produce."
Harden's survey result
“Brilliantly executed, Irish-inspired food (we particularly enjoyed the black pudding – made from beef, not pork – in a potato roll; and the beef fillet with boxty)” wins high praise from early-days reporters on chef Anna Haugh’s May 2019 opening, near World’s End in Chelsea (named for her hero – Ballymaloe chef, Myrtle Allen – and aiming to offer ‘modern European cooking with an Irish influence, using the finest Irish produce’). It’s a “cosy and welcoming” space too: “part of a small, Chelsea townhouse, so quite tightly packed, with steep stairs to the upper level or down to the toilets”.
Myrtle Restaurant Diner Reviews
"Cuisine very good of its kind, wine list limited. Service friendly albeit little erratic. Small establishment giving an intimate atmosphere. Overall good value and deserves to be a good neighbourhood eatery."
"I often think the sign of a good restaurant is when you find so many items that you struggle to pick which you want and on this Myrtle more than delivers. Irish super chef Anna Haugh has assembled a menu that leaves you struggling with not which dish to choose, but which dish to leave behind. The glutton in me would have gladly eaten every last thing on the menu and I can honestly say, the pain repaying the debt in the gym would have been well worth it. Mytle is without a doubt one of the most anticipated and hottest openings London will see in 2019. Originally planned for a late 2018 launch, Chef Patron Anna Haugh (yes, her of the telly) delayed the opening to ensure that every last detail was accounted for and it is very noticeable. The front of house team offer a polished service from start to finish, proving both attentive and discreet all at the same time – no mean feat (and I say this as a former restaurateur myself). The Irish touches flow throughout every inch of the restaurant, from the beautiful pewter water goblets complete with wonderful Celtic depictions, to the marble the butter is served on, to the ingredients, lovingly chosen from Irish suppliers (most of whom it turns out are women), to the menu itself which has a wonderful Irish lilt to each dish. The restaurant feels like everything 2019 needs – a strong female voice, a menu that is all about quality and enjoyment and nothing to do with tricks and fireworks. That's not to say that the restaurant doesn't hold any surprises – the exceptionally well made cocktails and the incredible twist on the world's best Boxty cake (more on that later) hit all the right notes, but in a comforting and reassuring way. The food itself kicked off with a superb soda bread and some salted Irish butter. We began with a selection of dishes, Heritage carrot salad stuffed with pickled raisins and Mossfield cheese was a dish for vegetarians and meat eaters alike. The contrast of the sweet raisins the perfect foil for the cheese and the carrots adding the textural elements to the dish. Clonakilty black pudding rolls, wrapped in a crispy potato spaghetti, accented by Wendy's apple chutney proved almost too good to eat, the sausage one of the finest specimens I have ever eaten and proving it is certainly much more than a breakfast item, and finally, trout with a cauliflower volute that was light and airy and for me the perfect starter. The chef treated us to an intermediate dish of salmon with pearl barley, asparagus and an asparagus sauce – a dish whose relatively humble ingredients belie its complexity – like so much of the restaurant, a true reflection of Anna. Main course was a stunning Irish fillet steak with parsnip puree, hispi cabbage, boxty cake and a tarragon beef jus. This particular boxty cake lifted this traditionally peasant dish into the realm of the gods – light as air and filled with a delicious slow braised beef. Anna explained that boxty cake will be making various different appearances on the menu over time – in dumpling form like this, as a pancake and the traditional potato cake. However it arrives, if it is a reflection of this, you will not be disappointed. We went for a clean sweep of deserts, partly because we couldn't pick and partly because at least 2 of us are greedy! Everything that arrived continued the theme of the rest of the meal – measured excellence. The Buttermilk panna cotta, rhubarb jelly, cinnamon doughnuts was a touch of genius – the perfect amount of wibble with the acidity of the rhubarb and then to finished the tiny, cloud-light doughnuts. The chocolate tart was rich, luxuriant and frankly, everything you would want from something so indulgent, the pastry thin and short and a wonderful ice cream to boot. To complete the quadruple finish we had a fluffy passion fruit posset with crisp biscuits, a touch of mint cutting through the creaminess and accenting the bitter sweet fruity flavour. Overall, Myrtle delivers everything it sets out to and more. It has the comfort of a well-established neighbourhood restaurant with enough flair and "wow" moments to make it both memorable and worth of return visits – truly a reflection of the soul of the chef. I for one am sure to be a frequent flyer"
"Great food, expensive prices, small portions, ok service, bland decor."
|Wine per bottle||£25.00|
1a Langton Street, London, SW10 0JL
|Tuesday||6 pm-10 pm|
|Wednesday||12 pm-3 pm, 6 pm-10 pm|
|Thursday||12 pm-3 pm, 6 pm-10 pm|
|Friday||12 pm-3 pm, 6 pm-10 pm|
|Saturday||12 pm-3 pm, 6 pm-10 pm|
|Sunday||12 pm-7 pm|