The Guardian
Grace Dent welcomed the arrival of new Ukrainian restaurant that is “already most definitely a highlight of 2025”. Co-founders Alex Cooper (who remains in Ukraine) and Anna Andriienko (who looks after the London end) have created a venue that is both “charmingly rustic” and “a confident, expertly staged, rather sexy dining spot with flattering, soft peachy lighting, Bessarabian wagyu on the grill and Black Sea yafe nagar” wine by the glass.
Grace pointed out that in modern London, actually feeding your guests comes second to creating an “experience” for many restaurants. “Then along comes Tatar Bunar and its luscious lamb chops with show-stopping spicy pickled tomatoes. Oh, those tomatoes … so sweet, so powerful…. No faff, no fuss, no lecture with each course, no long-winded explanation as to the cooking techniques involved, and no hovering or unwelcome input at all. Just dinner, and lots of it.”
Grace Dent - 2025-04-20
