The Times
Chitra Ramaswamy enjoyed Sunday lunch at a gastropub in Glasgow’s West End from the team behind Cail Bruich (on the site of their former seafood spot, Shucks). It reminded her of the Noughties: “trifle, rum baba and sticky toffee pudding crowd the dessert menu and the Sunday roast is £37 for three courses, which is the kind of good value I can get really nostalgic about.”
Head chef Declan King knows how to please the crowd, she said, with a “confident menu of British and French classics — it even does a prawn cocktail”. Steak tartare, dry-aged Aberdeen Angus chateaubriand, sole Grenobloise and tarte tatin were all excellent.
There was also an unusual starter that knocked Chitra’s socks off – handmade linguine, Arbroath smokie and cacio e pepe. “An idea so irresistible, so right, that I can’t believe I’ve never come across it before. It’s at once homely and sophisticated, Cullen skink-y, laden with salty, smoked fish and toasty pops of cracked black pepper. Glorious.”
Chitra Ramaswamy - 2025-04-06
Drinks
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