Harden's survey result
Distinguished chef Hans Schweitzer moved his “always outstanding” restaurant into new purpose-built premises in the Gonville Hotel in 2017 – a “lovely new location” for food that’s “inspired, finely balanced and beautifully presented” and in a culinary style that’s “interesting but grounded in established harmonies and avoiding wackiness”. “It may on first look appear expensive, but it’s worth every penny”.
After a decade in smallish premises near the Grafton Centre, Hans Schweitzer’s superior Italian venture upped sticks to the plusher environs of the Gonville Hotel in January 2017. This smartly decorated spot now offers a better backdrop for his “high-style dining with superb attention to detail” (with “surprises even in old-favourite dishes”).
Hans Schweitzer’s “spectacularly good” cuisine is an “11/10” for practically all who report on this peripherally located spot (on a busy road, near the Grafton Centre). “Italian in inspiration, the food is simply gobsmackingly gorgeous and especially the desserts; lovely staff and a cosy feel to the place all add up to make this smallish restaurant a romantic highlight – and there aren’t too many in Cambridge!”
“The location leaves much to be desired” (an “out-of-the-way” spot, on a busy road near the Grafton Centre) but all reporters are mightily impressed by Hans Schweitzer’s brave and experimental dining room. His “distinctive and imaginative” cuisine is “meticulous in its presentation and the ingredients used”, and – “it shows that he’s a pâtissier by trade” – his “wonderfully complicated” puddings are “the beautifully presented pièce de résistance”.
Gonville Hotel,, Cambridge, CB1 1LY