The Guardian
Grace Dent thrilled to a “dark, daunting, uncompromising” but “never boring” venue in Digbeth’s Custard Factory development, from former Purnell’s and The Man Behind the Curtain chef Kray Treadwell – a place of “kitsch crypt décor” where a meal begins with drinks in a lobby that “feels a bit like being in an exclusive 1980s Soho hotel during a power cut”.
It’s not somewhere to go hungry, looking for meat and two veg, Grace advised. “Rather, it is very clearly a journey, an exploration, a culinary art exhibition or a high-concept dining experience… where chefs cook at a sublime level, but dish up such minuscule amounts.”
Over six or 12 courses, the menu is “a cascade of small, meaningful bowls, all of which just ooze flavour and, like all the best superheroes, turn up with an origin story.”
Grace Dent - 2025-10-19