Ashtead, French Restaurant Guide

Food TV staple José Pizarro’s first outfit outside the capital – and first gastroboozer (with rooms) – is set in “a not-completely-obvious location” in the Surrey ‘burbs. Reviews were slightly muted this year: while most praised the “great modern Spanish food” (including “fabulous tapas”), others noted a lack of atmosphere (“wouldn’t be hard to make it feel a bit more intimate”).

Given its attractive setting on Downside Common, this “lovely country pub” (part of Raymond Blanc’s White Brasserie chain) in the heart of plush stockbroker belt would likely be a local destination come what may. But it also goes the extra mile and – though it’s not particularly ‘gastro’ – wins consistently high acclaim for its “cheerful welcoming staff” and high quality of cooking. “It was done up over the winter; and although there is no longer a set menu, the prices are reasonable in the current climate”. Top Menu Tip – “well-prepared steak and very good tartiflette starter”.

2022 Review: ‘A taste of rural France on the Fulham Road’ is the promise at this ‘gourmet traiteur’ in Chelsea: an early 2020 newcomer where dishes (to go or for delivery within 4 miles) are designed for reheating at home and prepared by Chris Hill, who most recently worked as a senior sous chef at The Ritz. It’s owned by Dimitri and Mira Plaquet, of a high-quality Belgian food group called La Villa Lorraine. They must be doing something right, as in mid 2021 they launched a second store in Wimbledon.

For a quality meal out St Margaret’s way, this conventional French restaurant – set in agreeably old-fashioned Victorian premises – provides a traditional and enjoyable experience that’s consistently well-rated in our annual diners’ poll. Top Tip – good-value ‘menu du jour’ available at lunch and at dinner early in the week.

This “friendly family bistro serving classic” Breton galettes, seafood and cider has been a fixture near Richmond Bridge for 35 years, and is for many local reporters “a go-to restaurant for lunch or dinner” – whether at one of the “far tables which overlook the Thames” or in the “private room upstairs, ideal for parties”. In early 2023 founder Lindsay Wotton put the business up for sale so she could retire.

2022 Review: The French cuisine may not be cutting-edge, but it is both consistent and highly accomplished at this ten-year-old restaurant with rooms in north Surrey. Chef owners Laurent Pacaud and Martin Bradley ran the business as a catering company for ten years before that.

This popular small bistro group is “so very French”, especially when eating at the original “buzzy” Battersea branch, which opened in 2007 “at an attractive location near the river”. The other branches – in Putney, Wandsworth Common and the City (plus one inside the Institut Français in South Kensington) – are also applauded as “good value” options, but results can also seem a little “unadventurous”.

This “retro neighbourhood French bistro” in a parade of shops near Kew station is “massively popular with the locals due to its competitive prices” for “Gallic classics with a little twist” (and gets “very crowded at lunchtimes”).

This popular small bistro group is “so very French”, especially when eating at the original “buzzy” Battersea branch, which opened in 2007 “at an attractive location near the river”. The other branches – in Putney, Wandsworth Common and the City (plus one inside the Institut Français in South Kensington) – are also applauded as “good value” options, but results can also seem a little “unadventurous”.

With its charcuterie, gutsy small plates, cheese and wacky vintages, this venture from Les Caves de Pyrène (est 2011) helped inspire the current vogue for low intervention wine bars in the capital. Feedback is scarce nowadays, but still suggests it’s worth a try if you’re in the vicinity of Battersea Rise.

“For a reasonable pre-theatre/concert meal” on the South Bank, the SE1 branch of this Gallic brasserie chain is “a useful option behind the Royal Festival Hall”; its City and Legal-land outlets are serviceable for a working lunch; and its W6 branch has a “classy” position on the river. Over time, though, it has “declined from being one of the better multiples” and is nowadays “very, very average indeed” – with the possible exception of Hammersmith, you wouldn’t make them a destination in their own right. BREAKING NEWS. In October 2023, a third branch was announced on the South Kensington site that – appropriately – traded for yonks in time gone by as La Brasserie (long RIP).

“Just the job for a simple, casual supper” – this bistro in an “unlikely spot” just south of Battersea Bridge is inspired by the cuisine of Evian in the French Alps, hometown of patron Franck Raymond, who is “completely invested in making sure you have a great experience”.

“The French bistro at its best”, this “reliable” Gallic fixture by Acton Green is “a small bit of Paris in Chiswick”, with “perfect food (including oysters) and an atmosphere for romance”. Top Menu Tip – “delicious soufflés”.

2022 Review: ‘A taste of rural France on the Fulham Road’ is the promise at this ‘gourmet traiteur’ in Chelsea: an early 2020 newcomer where dishes (to go or for delivery within 4 miles) are designed for reheating at home and prepared by Chris Hill, who most recently worked as a senior sous chef at The Ritz. It’s owned by Dimitri and Mira Plaquet, of a high-quality Belgian food group called La Villa Lorraine. They must be doing something right, as in mid 2021 they launched a second store in Wimbledon.

“A great place to have in the neighbourhood” – this “lovely” Antipodean-run fixture is set – with its own sizable outside terrace – in a large and characterful Victorian laundry; and “sitting next to Brixton Market means it always has a lively vibe with some added street theatre”. “Lots of cocktails are enjoyed at the weekends here”, when it’s a favourite destination. But “it works for brunch, lunch or dinner” with an all-day menu incorporating a good selection of modern bistro dishes alongside more breakfast-ish staples.

“Always reliable and first-class French cooking” is complemented by a serious wine list, including nine from Margaux, at this upmarket neighbourhood spot over two storeys at the Earl’s Court end of South Kensington.

The Hell’s Kitchen chef’s original Chelsea HQ is increasingly “trading on its reputation”, attracting more criticism than it does praise nowadays. Even fans sometimes acknowledge this “rather beige” room has a “stilted” ambience, and opinions on the service vary widely: from “impeccable” to “overwhelming” or even “robotic”. When it comes to the fairly classical cuisine, there’s also a pick ’n’ mix of views: from “unbeatable” to “overly fussy” or “safe”. What both sides do often agree on is that the experience comes “at the most ridiculous second mortgage prices”, with almost two in five of diners’ voting it their most overpriced meal of the year. A fair middle view is that: “as you should expect from a three Michelin star restaurant, the food is lovely; but it’s a struggle to work out in what way it is better than many other two-star or even one-star restaurants. It’s good, but not that good”.

This “dependable neighbourhood bistro”, on a busy stretch linking Hammersmith and Shepherd’s Bush, combines classic gingham tablecloths with a menu inspired by Provence – favoured holiday destination for proprietors Lawrence & Emily Hartley, who previously operated the site as Mustard.