Helmsley, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

“One to watch” from “the proprietors ex-of Hovingham Inn” (seasoned restaurateurs Richard & Lindsey Johns, who have a strong following dating back even further, to the days of the Artisan in Hessle). One diner who has “long been a fan” claims that “in their current venue” (a 15th-century boozer) “Richard is back on fine form with delicious, freshly cooked offerings” (hearty British dishes that don’t stint on Yorkshire generosity), and “Lindsey as ever is the charming face of the business” – a positive opinion shared by the Estrella Damm crew, who welcomed it into their top UK gastropubs list just three months after opening.

“Have followed these guys from Le Cochon Aveugle – this is better!”, according to fans of Josh (chef) & Victoria (sommelier) Overington’s year-old restaurant with rooms, which they opened in mid 2023 in a picturesque converted pub in a small village about half an hour from their previous venture (in York). Fans say it’s “an extraordinary meal and stunning location, and absolutely no surprise to see them awarded a Michelin star in short five months”. Here they again serve an “excellent tasting menu” at £145 per person for 12-13 courses that’s “full of variety” and seasonality, and which delighted the majority in our annual diners’ poll who have made the trip thus far. It’s matched with an “excellent wine list, with mostly European and old-world wines, but fantastic variety and price variations”. On the downside, there have been a couple of reporters who found it either “overpriced (even if exceptional)”; or “good (but not as good as it‘s reputed to be)”. More commonly, though, reports suggest you “get there soon before they have a longer waiting list!” and interestingly, the property’s picturesque village location, rooms to stay over and characterful interior make this a romantic recommendation almost as often as it is a gastronomic one. Top Menu Tip – “Highlights were Charcoal Pie, filled with roe deer tartare topped with caviar, Scallop with sea urchin butter, a delicious almost treacley black pudding sauce with the pork, and the goats’ yogurt sorbet with rhubarb and treacle curd”.