The Times
Giles Coren made a seven-hour, 504-mile round journey to a remote North Yorkshire village, he informed us, to visit a “charming, hobbity medieval inn with wonky bricks and wormy beams”.
Run by chef Tom Heywood and his “lovely” wife Laurissa Cook, it’s a place that proclaims its sustainable and local values and offers a 7-course tasting menu for £50 – “yes, £50. Which is embarrassing good value for cooking this careful, this precise, this deeply thought about”.
The food was delicious throughout, and Giles’s only gripe was that his locally forged knife was too blunt to cut fine slivers of the “very deeply flavoured but tough” Castle Howard mutton. The inn is, he said approvingly, typical of a “certain sort of old/new English hospitality that owes as much to Little Grey Rabbit and Mrs Tiggywinkle as to Escoffier and Blumenthal”.
Giles Coren - 2026-10-04
Drinks
Extras
