Ely, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

In a fast-changing world, this “friendly and quirky” gallery-cum-restaurant is something of a bastion – a “longstanding favourite” for its “old-fashioned cooking” and “wonderfully attentive (but not intrusive) service”. Owner Ann Jarman, now 87, launched it with two friends in 1968, with Olive Fyson working in the kitchen; Olive’s three daughters were all cooks here, and her granddaughter Claire is now the manager. Top Menu Tip – “fantastic pigeon”.