Billericay, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

Ignore the “standard pub-grub menu” at this cute 17th-century village hostelry on the Essex Way long-distance footpath, and “choose from the specials board every time” – it’s “packed with great dishes using locally sourced ingredients”.

“A real find in mid-Essex”, this dining pub showcases “beautifully presented” cooking that’s “bursting with flavour” from Tom Clarke, who trained under Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir and was head chef at L’Ortolan in Reading. He took charge two years ago with his business partner Nancy Witte, also ex-L’Ortolan, who mixes “delicious cocktails” and oversees the front of house in style.

“Still our favourite local after 30+ years..” – This “delightfully olde worlde” 15th-century coaching inn has been run by the same family since 1938, with landlords Christine & John Vereker these days helped by the third generation. It remains “a lovely, vibrant old venue that trailblazed the gastropub concept back in the ’80s and is still producing wonderful food in a genuine pub atmosphere”.