Okehampton, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“What a relief… the departure of Chris Eden in late 2024 doesn’t seem to have rocked the boat” according to reports on this famous culinary destination, which seems finally to have regained a more impressive culinary stride in recent years. As one regular notes, “Michelin must have thought so, too in continuing in 2025 the (deserved) one star award after the appointment of Ian Webber [in February 2025] as the new chef – who fortuitously trained at Gidleigh in the Michael Caines days – and who the hotel knew would be a set of very capable hands”. Down a narrow lane on the edge of Dartmoor, you turn a corner to suddenly find yourself in this “gorgeous” ‘Tudorbethan’ mansion in scenic grounds by the moor. “It’s a thoroughly professional but relaxed operation” with service that’s “friendly and attentive without being overdone” and whose “imaginative and assured cooking matches the surroundings”. And, you don’t have to indulge in tedious tasting menus either with the menu format here being a good ol’ fashioned three course à la carte, be it at lunch for £75 per person; or dinner for £135 per person.

“This old coaching inn on Dartmoor” has thrived under the ownership since 2019 of Jay & Tess Barker-Jones (she first worked here as a kitchen porter 20 years ago), and is “best described as a restaurant with a bar offering reliable, honest food” – although the fact that it’s busy through the winter is testament to its popularity with locals. “Grilled meats are the focus: select a cut and view the prep/cooking from your table”. Top Menu Tip – “ploughman’s lunch is a tour de force”.

2022 Review: “Good all round” – the consistent ratings at this famous sporting hotel on the edge of Dartmoor have not been ruffled by its 2020 sale by the Fox-Edwards family that owned and ran it for 60 years to new custodians and former guests Simon Village & Arabella Monro. The 300-year-old former coaching inn has 20 miles of private riverbank and a fly-fishing school established in the 1930, and also caters for game shooting and deer-stalking parties. Meals are served in the dining room and bar, and there is a new deli providing picnic hampers.

“A great pub with good things happening in the kitchen”, which “makes excellent use of local produce, particularly venison from local stalkers and other meat from local farmers” – “still clearly a pub rather than restaurant, it has good local ales as well as a decent wine list”. Chef owner John Hooker and his wife Emma, who arrived in 2013, took over the Blacksmiths Arms in nearby Lamerton a couple of years ago.