Nine Elms, Italian Restaurant Guide

Just by the Thames, this prime site at the Battersea Power Station development, with a terrace overlooking the river, was one of the site’s first anchor tenants – a stylish-looking modern Italian from Evolv (fka D&D London). But – notwithstanding the evident attractions of its location and consistent ratings – it has never elicited huge enthusiasm amongst diners.

“A hidden gem” that “deserves to be better known” at Queen’s Circus in Battersea, with a “New York vibe and great Italian food” from Naples-born chef Franco De Lucia. The “lovely railway arch location is both surprising and confusing to find if you don’t know where it is”, while a “very friendly front-of-house team” under founder Emily Few Brown “explain each dish, but not in the annoying way many high-end restaurants do”. Top tip – “don’t miss the breads”.

Modelled on Continental cafés, this duo occupy a Victoria hotel and the ground floor of the art’otel by Battersea Power Station. Only the former gets much in the way of nominations, particularly as a good-value destination with kids in tow. There’s a variety of salads, pasta and soups with simple grills and bakes (including to share) the main event. Top Menu Tip – “the fried zucchini is tops”.

This quartet of modern pasta joints offer “high-quality ingredients” and staff who “make you feel very welcome”. But the cooking divides opinion sharply, with some reporters praising “good, unpretentious” cooking “at a fair price” and others complaining of “tiny, overpriced helpings – avoid!”. A more nuanced judgement: “good but could be so much better – menu had some great options but everything seemed overpowered with butter/oil”.