Hardway Restaurant Guide

“Every flavour is unique with dishes that are exciting, different and a real taste experience, but not in a whacky, OTT way – just letting the ingredients speak for themselves” – at Merlin Labron-Johnson’s acclaimed destination; which “has moved out of Bruton (about ten minutes down the road to the middle of the countryside)” – and now occupies a 17th-century coaching inn, offering four minimal-chic rooms named after rivers in Somerset. One first-time visitor was wowed by “a miracle of flavours from the simplest ingredients” (“it’s the vegetables and foraged herbs that stand out”), all abetted by “inspirational and creative” presentation. “One of those meals where you want to lick the saucy remains off every emptied dish, and the service is so friendly that you actually can!”. The eleven-course tasting menu is £150 per person (with lunch nine courses for £95 per person). Top Menu Tips – “fallow deer is especially good as is the fried parsnip (and I don’t like parsnips!)”. “‘Old favourite’ dishes such as a game pithivier and the squid, pigs head and black truffle are totally amazing. Beetroot taco with salted egg yoke – the flavours are just incredible. Another stand out is the meadowsweet icecream, so unusual and the most fabulous texture”.

This “very classy hotel, restaurant and bakery” in a snazzily converted 18th-century congregational chapel anticipated Bruton’s gastro boom by several years when it opened back in 2008, and remains “an experience not to be missed” under relatively new ownership – a menu mixing wood-fired pizza with modern British and European small plates “always comes up with the goods”, while the venue takes full advantage of its double-height ceilings and south-facing terrace for al-fresco dining.

“A wonderful, exclusive, if rather pricey place for a meal” – this glam hideaway is the centrepiece dining-wise of billionaire Koos Bekker and wife Karen’s luxurious estate, which they launched in 2019. With its oak panelled dining room and “attention-grabbing, glass-house courtyard add-on” it’s an “extremely pleasant environment” (“tables are well spread out within the more formal area within the original hotel building and the large glass walled and roofed extension is slightly more informal”). “Staff are so welcoming and motivated” providing service that’s “proficient and leisurely” and the food is simple but very well executed using lots of ingredients either sourced from the estate or nearby farms (including venison). Round off your meal with “a magical after-lunch stroll through the grounds… fabulous!”

This latest new happening at Swiss art dealership Hauser + Wirth’s flagship property is billed as a farmstead in Italian style with aims of ‘legendary Italian bonhomie through dishes rooted in traditions, care and imagination’. When it comes to the whole set-up though, our early reports include ups-and-downs: from very good all-round experiences, to that of a “very ordinary restaurant with sporadic service”. Even the latter, though, say “all would be fine if the prices were set appropriately”.

“An excellent addition to the Bruton food scene” – this unpretentious farm-to-table restaurant from former River Cottage alum’ Sam Lomas has banished the ghost of former incumbent Osip, now located out of town, taking over the dining room of this attractive Georgian hotel in summer 2024 (the huge stone fireplace and earthy décor nod to its past as an ironmonger’s). The food is “based on small plates (plus snacks, sharing dishes and proper puds) using carefully sourced ingredients”, and it’s all “absolutely delicious and extremely good value for money” too.

In this increasingly arty part of Somerset, gallery owner Max Wigram’s “destination pub” – also the first venture outside the capital for Margot Henderson of London’s Rochelle Canteen fame, with Nye Smith overseeing the retro cooking on a day-to-day basis. While the village venture attracted quite some attention on opening in 2023 (“takes your nightmare of school food and elevates it to dreamlike status”, breathed William Sitwell), feedback this year was somewhat muted (ranging from reports of “very good” fish to more “varied food standards”).