The Times
Charlotte Ivers revealed herself as one of Giles Coren’s “weary satirists”, describing this posh take on a railway café (from the billionaire team behind the nearby The Newt country estate hotel) as “like Daylesford, or Soho Farmhouse… the countryside designed by someone who has never left Notting Hill. Soft-toned Farrow & Ball, artfully distressed flooring, gleaming Agas, vast farmhouse-style tables that have never been near a farmhouse.”
Apparently the place has caused ructions among locals, who guess that it is aimed at “twits” down from London, rather than them. Charlotte did not challenge this view, and was polite but hardly enthusiastic about the food.
“Still, it’s better than most railway cafés’” she concluded. “That’s praise, of sorts. If you’re caught waiting for the train, you should pop in. Don’t tell the locals I sent you.”
Charlotte Ivers - 2024-11-10
