Haggerston, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“A real event, with very complex and often-experimental food” – Gabriel & Patricia Waterhouse’s “temple of high cuisine” started out in his flat and, since 2021, has occupied this Scandi-esque, high-ceilinged, light-filled space near Regent’s Canal. Bookings are available for 1-6 diners and much of the seating is at communal tables, to which the ‘Long Form Menu’ at £155 per person is served at peak times (with cheaper options at quieter times). “There’s practically no choice on wine: either you have the wines provided or you have the non-alcoholic versions (same price)”. All reports agree this is “amazing” cooking – “you might not love it all, but you will certainly find it interesting!” – and there’s a general feeling that it is also “very good value for a great gastronomic experience”. As to the overall set-up, while the odd report says the seating is “a bit rag tag”, most say “don’t be put off by the supperclub set-up or shared tables”.

“Brilliant combination of flavours” – from a menu of modern European small plates from chef Michael Robins – twinned with “interesting low-intervention wine from superstar sommelier and co-owner Honey Spencer” (who contributes to “some of the best service in town”), have won instant acclaim for this “lovely, relaxed Scandi-vibes” newcomer near Hackney’s hip Broadway Market. Press critics have raved and reports in our annual diners’ poll likewise view it as an “all-round knockout”: “a place to visit regularly” if you live out East, and if not “a bit out-of-the-way, but worth the trip!”.

“Having started as a pop-up these guys are going from strength to strength” – Freddie Sheen & Zac Whittle opened their first permanent home in Cambridge Heath in March 2022. “It’s one of the better options amongst the plethora of small-plates-and-wine joints to have opened all over east London (seemingly avoiding PR hype but nevertheless constantly packed, mainly from word of mouth)”. There is a tasting option (for £50-60 per person), but most meals are à la carte featuring “imaginative flavour combinations done to a consistent standard and at comparatively friendly prices”. Service is “friendly” and there’s a good “buzz” (although not everyone is sold on its recent expansion).