Copster Green, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Going from strength to strength under the stewardship of Lisa Goodwin-Allen” – this much-extended manor house in the Ribble Valley (just off the A59) built its renown under chef Nigel Haworth and his former-protégée Lisa’s “exceptional and innovative” cuisine maintains its reputation in fine style, thanks to the “really excellent layers of flavour and texture running through all her dishes”. Although its nowadays in the same group as that of The Stafford in London’s St James’s, long term MD Craig Bancroft remains at the helm and “the fact that he is so closely involved and so passionate about wine just shines through in the wine list (of course there are well-known vintages from France etc, but many other interesting options)”. The odd regular fears that “a corporate approach is taking over the uniqueness that is Northcote”, but most accounts applaud the “lovely” setting. A highpoint of the year here is the annual Obsession food festival, which runs annually for two weeks in January and February with a series of guest meals from famous chefs – it has established itself now as a key event in the UK’s annual foodie calendar.