The Guardian
Grace Dent had a puzzling lunch at a large, semi-formal restaurant attached to a natural wine vineyard in “breathtakingly pretty countryside” near the Romney Marshes. Doubts set in early, with “stale focaccia” that had clearly been cooked the previous day and citrus-cured halibut that lacked “zing”, while the “amateur-hour” service made no mention of the wines being made on site.
This was a pity because there was some “great cooking” displayed in the main dishes. “Lobster linguine came topped with half a native lobster, with a good, rich, slightly piquant, glossy tomato sauce, [and was] impossible not to love.” A lamb dish was “complex”, while a “nicely cooked skate wing with brown shrimp sported a delightful beurre noisette.”
“This is a restaurant that seems to be currently working to a fraction of its potential”– a view confirmed by Grace’s dessert, a cheesecake that was clearly pre-made, with a base of digestive biscuits.
Grace Dent - 2025-09-14