Daily Mail
Tom Parker Bowles, in Margate to catch “two giants of dance music, Leftfield and Orbital, playing later at Dreamland”, was more than impressed by this newcomer – despite its site in a shopping centre with views of Poundland, Peacocks and Subway.
He enjoyed some “elegant offal” to start with – “a skewer of chicken hearts, plump, pert and well spiced” and “rounds of tongue, softly robust” – followed by coal-roasted sweet potatoes, hispi cabbage draped in lardo and chicken karaage, all from “a kitchen that roams the globe with easy aplomb”.
The fish of the day’ is “a mighty lemon sole on the bone, exquisitely fresh and exquisitely cooked”, while pudding is rum-poached apricots. “Service is as warm as the early afternoon sun, the whole place splendidly laid-back.”
Tom Parker-Bowles - 2024-10-27
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