The Guardian
Grace Dent tested the new concept from Nico Simeone, the “indefatigable” Scottish-Italian chef behind the Six by Nico chain. This would be very different, he promised – à la carte, focused on dry-aged meat and “not scalable”, although there are already branches in Glasgow and Edinburgh.
Grace was “bombarded from all sides” at what felt like a “bootcamp of flavours”, some of which worked better than others. First out of the kitchen was dry-aged beef tartare with oyster emulsion, looking like an oyster in a tempura shell. “Tartare purists will hate it; oyster purists will hate it more. But Six by Nico, and now Lennox, have never been about stiff rules.”
A halloumi shawarma with baba ganoush and rosemary flatbread was “really unappetising”, while lemon tart was served with red wine sorbet and rosemary: “three very assertive flavours in a death fight to dominate”. Grace’s favourite dish was the fish finger with katsu curry: “think elevated McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish dipped in those tiny pots of curry sauce.”
Grace Dent - 2026-07-26
