The Times
A greedy Giles Coren doubled up by reviewing two restaurants – the first of which, Pinna in Shepherd Market, was “jolly nice if you like superexpensive Italian restaurants in Mayfair, which people in Mayfair absolutely do”.
This one was packed with “finance bros in their gilets with young women very much not in gilets, all noisily tucking into £30 starters and £40 pastas and £50 mains, made from the finest ingredients and not too much done to them.”
More to Giles’s taste socially – and rather less expensive – was the new all-day-bakery cum restaurant in Queen’s Park from a “lovely local guy called Daniel Land, who is connected to simply everyone and founded Coco di Mama”. The kitchen hit the spot with a “good squishy crab tart”, hearty scallops, a “monster” skate wing with chickpeas, clams and chilli, served with “good to perfect” pommes Anna” then madeleines warm from the oven.
Giles Coren - 2025-02-09
