The Observer
Jay Rayner came clean fairly early on in his review of this self-style “refined taverna” in Mayfair that he had dropped in at least partly so that he could “point and laugh at stupid things”. And so he did, starting with the “fully Botoxed clientele from Asia, the Middle East and Europe who need never look at the menu’s right-hand column”.
Mostly, Jay pointed and laughed at the prices. So a £12 thumb-high whorl of whipped cod’s roe was a taste of “dip heaven in that it can only be afforded by the gods”, while a similarly priced portion of broccoli with chilli and garlic was “just a bunch of accountants laughing uproariously at us”.
Jay’s best gag was prompted by the centrepiece fish slab, from which guests take their pick and are charged by weight. “The prices force me to call Rex Goldsmith of the renowned Chelsea Fishmonger. He tells me his kilo price for mackerel is £12.50. I tell him at Gaia it’s £100. Rex gasps. ‘Christ,’ he says. ‘At that price the fish should give you a blowjob’.”
Jay Rayner - 2024-06-09
Drinks
Extras
