The Daily Telegraph
Tom Parker Bowles gave a warm welcome to the new gastropub combining the talents of a “great dining dynasty” – Jon Spiteri, Melanie Arnold and their children Lorcan, Fin and Molly – and already feels like a “much-loved local” after only two visits.
The menu of four starters and four mains included a “beautifully cooked” tranche of sea bass and rare onglet with hand-cut chips. “Pork-belly skewers are braised in cider, compressed then deep-fried. Seven hours’ work for a couple of magnificently meaty mouthfuls.”
Puddings, though, “need more work”. Chocolate mousse is rich but a little ponderous, while an apricot and amaretti biscuit crumble in custard is “a touch sparse”.
Tom Parker Bowles - 2026-06-07
