Harden's survey result
Summary
“The best and freshest oysters by far, with seasonal varieties from time to time…”; “superb plateau de fruits de mer”; and “super-fresh fish” from an “ever-changing selection of specials”, all make this small group of seafood bistros “easy to love”. The style is “busy and jostling” throughout – “be prepared to share your table with other diners” in some locations – in others “some of the tables are so close, you’ll make new friends whether you want to or not!”. The Borough Market original and South Kensington spin-off attract most (and most favourable) reports – other branches (including at Battersea) can seem “a welcome addition but nothing remarkable”.
Summary
“An amazing selection of oysters” and other “wonderfully inventive fish and shellfish dishes” (in particular, “blackboard specials are usually excellent”) have made these bustling fish bistros one of the capital’s most popular chains amongst foodies, and – though relatively new – they have “an old-fashioned style, feeling like they’ve been there for years (in a good way…)”. “The latest addition in Battersea Power Station and overlooking the Thames may be the best yet!”
Summary
“A haven for top notch oysters and shellfish” (they have their own Cornish farm and wholesalers) – these “bustling” bistros have grown from their Borough Market origins on the back of their “sparklingly fresh and delicious” dishes, plus “good wines by the glass”. “That they’re cramped is all part of the charm”. Battersea is the latest addition to the family, and in SW7 fans tip “the little gem of a Mermaid Bar, like a luxurious grotto with elegant cocktails”.
Summary
“A terrific oyster selection”… “fabulous dressed crab”… “superb mussels” – such are the “fuss-free” delicacies at these extremely popular, “friendly” and “always buzzing” seafood specialists.
Harden's says...
Wright Brothers W1
Perfect for Carnaby Street shoppers and oyster-lovers, the first offshoot of the mega-popular Borough fish and seafood bar.
The only real problem with the Wright Brothers oyster bar at Borough Market has always been that it's too cramped and busy. We suspect that its new offshoot, near Carnaby Street, will soon be very busy too, but the setting in an airy townhouse-conversion is certainly much less cramped.
The culinary proposition is simple, and all the better for it. Oysters - which Londoners only now seem to be rediscovering - are of course the bedrock (the Wrights being oystermen), but there's also a range of other seafood, and some very well-realised simple fish dishes of the day too.
The only extraordinary thing? That for so long the West End existed without many easily accessible places, such as this, which one can pop in to for a delicious light meal. Kingly Court - an enclave between Carnaby and Regent Street - is, however, just one of the more striking 'nodes', whose emergence dramatises the improvements that are now blossoming across the whole of the West End.
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