Harden's survey result
“A bit starchy, but hard to fault” – Clément Leroy continues to prepare “near-faultless” modern French cuisine at Marlon Abela’s celebrated Mayfair temple of gastronomy, whose other major culinary feature is one of the capital’s more formidable wine lists. Ambience-wise, it’s never exactly been a riotous venue – even during its higher profile Phil Howard days – and now, as it was then, is still most often nominated as an expense-accounter favourite, notwithstanding a “refurbished dining room that’s more industrial-chic than stylish-comfort”.
“Yet another new chef and change of design”… yet this twice-relaunched Mayfair temple of gastronomy (both times by recent buyer, Marlon Abela) nowadays bears a not-so-different set of strengths and weaknesses from its original self. Chef (since November 2017) Clement Leroy “maintains the highest standards” and fans feel it “deserves to reclaim its position as one of London’s top tables” (although you can quibble as to whether the cuisine is quite as good as under Phil Howard). Despite attempts to pep up the room, it retains a “slightly downbeat ambience”, but this doesn’t put off the expense accounters for whom it’s always been a favourite, drawn in part by its ever-formidable wine list.
“New owners and chef have a lot to do to reclaim the plaudits of old!” at this “grown up” foodie temple in Mayfair, where owner Marlon Abela took over a year ago from Phil Howard and Nigel Platts Martin: post-sale sceptics felt you “paid two star prices for nothingy food that wasn’t star quality”, and felt the switch had done nothing for the “sterile” ambience (never exactly a riot here). It seems that Abela has ‘smelt the coffee’ because replacement chef Yu Sigimoto left in August 2017 as the restaurant closed for a total revamp to re-open in October 2017 with ‘a new concept [that] will reflect an energetic, urban and contemporary attitude underpinned by elegant and luxurious style’. [Did he really write that? Ed]
This “classy” gastronomic temple in Mayfair was sold by its creators Phil Howard and Nigel Platts-Martin in Spring 2016 (just before this year’s survey). With its “very formal” (“dull”), style – underpinned by a “bible of a wine list” – it’s a shoe-in for the portfolio of new owner, Marlon Abela, who seems sure to maintain its business-friendly appeal. Whether the cuisine will hold up is less certain – hence we’ve left it un-rated – but one early report says it’s “still Fabulous with a capital F”. STOP PRESS – in September 2016 Yu Sugimoto was named the new executive chef.
|Wine per bottle||£30.00|
6-10 Bruton St, London, W1J 6PU
|Monday||12 pm‑3 pm, 6:30 pm‑10 pm|
|Tuesday||12 pm‑3 pm, 6:30 pm‑10 pm|
|Wednesday||12 pm‑3 pm, 6:30 pm‑10 pm|
|Thursday||12 pm‑3 pm, 6:30 pm‑10 pm|
|Friday||12 pm‑2:30 pm, 6 pm‑10:30 pm|
|Saturday||12 pm‑2:30 pm, 6 pm‑10:30 pm|