The Greenhouse

Summary

“Down a quiet street in Mayfair”, this calm and luxurious temple of gastronomy is a well-known stalwart (est 1977), that’s a particular “old-favourite” for those who recall its days under Gary Rhodes. Nowadays part of Marlon Abela’s restaurant empire, it has held two Michelin stars since 2014, which were successfully retained by new chef Alex Dilling, who joined in mid 2018. Harden’s regulars likewise report a “seamless transition” that’s “given a new lease of life” to the kitchen: acclaiming his “thoughtfully sequenced” and “exciting” tasting menus, which manage not to be eclipsed by one of London’s most comprehensive wine lists. The experience comes at “hedge fund prices” though, and the continuing ethos of classic gastronomy for its own sake continues to leave some folks with a “stuffy, stilted, and pretentious” impression. “It was bordering on the comical at times – I recall no less than four servers engaged in simultaneously spooning a rather flat Parmesan foam on to our plates with such pomp and ceremony that my guest and I could barely hold back the tears of laughter. I felt like I was misbehaving in church, but this is far from being a sacred place…”