A fourth UK branch of Roberto Costa's Italian steakhouse chain opened in Battersea in July 2017, combining restaurant and butchery with their renowned Fassona beef, which is butchered and dry-aged on-site. Hand-picked wines match how well you like your steak cooked.
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“A wacky way of issuing cutlery (plunging the steak knives into the table!)” adds a further frisson to these “memorable venues” – “an interesting concept where the butcher’s counter sits in the middle of the restaurant”. “Steak or tuna, that’s your only choice”, but the former in particular is “superb”, “melt-in-the-mouth” Piemontese Fassone meat matched with “delicious Italian wines”. There are two ‘flies in the ointment’ – “prices are now approaching ‘rip off’ levels”, and hit unlucky and service can be “rude, arrogant and slow”.
“A must for carnivores!” – These Italian grill-houses, complete with “eccentric” butcher’s shop decor, attract adulatory reviews, primarily for their “fantastic range” of “superb” Piedmontese Fassone steaks (although their alternative line in Sardinian bluefin tuna dishes can also be “outstanding”), but also for their “zany” and “charming” service, “excellent, predominantly Italian wines” and “warm and inviting hubbub”. And yet… they don’t do it for everyone – ratings are undercut by a hardcore band of sceptics who find the whole package a disappointment. The South Kensington original was joined by an Exmouth Market branch in late 2015 (formerly Medcalf’s, RIP), and a third branch opens in Southwark’s Union Yard arches in autumn 2016.