The Times
Charlotte Ivers was keen to welcome the arrival of a smart new gastropub in a part of London where people of her generation (the early 30s) move to procreate. For reasons she could not fathom, however, every dish she ordered – courgettes, malfatti, fillet of cod with broad beans, smoked ricotta and tomato – arrived as or in a soup.
“Had the menu been designed with … babies in mind?” she wondered. “The infant on the table next to us seemed to be having a wonderful time. Was I, too, being weaned?”
What’s more, pretty well everything on the menu was “just slightly too sweet”. On the credit side, it is a “gorgeous” place with lovely high ceilings, the drinks list is good, and the kitchen shows flashes of genius, including “wonderfully crispy” salt cod beignets and a decent chocolate mousse with olive oil.
Charlotte Ivers - 2025-07-27
Drinks
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