The Times
Jay Rayner has a new favourite yakitori restaurant in London – as good, he says, as any he has tried in Tokyo. A “polished box on the edge of the City”, it was opened in November by Kuangyi Wei, a Beijing-born management consultant who was bereft when her favourite yakitori, Angelo Sato’s Humble Chicken, switched to a tasting-menu format.
She found a Japanese head chef on an online backpackers’ forum, uses only Fosse Meadows chickens (“the bourgeoisie of fowl”) and offers at least 17 different cuts – “including parts even the chicken may not be aware it has”.
They all, of course, taste of chicken, Jay said – “but in the most intense way; by turns crisp and succulent, as if each skewer is the very best part of the Sunday roast that you were holding out for. The difference between each may seem marginal, but there’s a nerdy delight to be taken in the small contrasts of texture and seasoning.”
Jay Rayner - 2025-03-30
Drinks
Extras
