The Times
Charlotte Ivers made sure she got in early to the new restaurant that has taken the place of Pidgin – a “very small, very cool, set-menu place” that everybody was talking about for two years in the mid-2010s. Sesta, launched by an ex-Pidgin pair in chef Drew Snaith and manager Hannah Kowalski, has switched from set menus (“no longer à la mode”) to à la carte, apparently “because the economy is à la toilette” (oh là là, Charlotte!).
“Many of the dishes are almost laughably fashionable” – posh toasties (“Sesta’s comes with beef ragu, chilli pickled onion and a rich brown sauce made from the dripping… so rich you only want a bite or two”); taramasalata (properly “salty, sultry and smoky”, with smoked eel and pickled radishes); prawn and stone bass dolma (“stuffed vine leaves: also highly fashionable”) with black rice and ouzo butter.
“All of this should be accompanied by a glass of ‘natty wine’, as our waitress saw fit to call it. “
Charlotte Ivers - 2024-10-27
