August 2018: Hamish Pearce, who works at Pidgin, has won the Young Chef of the Year title 2018. One to watch...
Harden's survey result
“Breathtakingly inventive and excellently executed” cooking (“best described as modern British with a substantial Asian influence”) has won renown out of all proportion to the “extremely small” size of this Hackney two-year-old, which has a better claim to culinary fame than most East End ventures. “How they keep up such high standards with a weekly changing tasting menu is astonishing” (“although we have eaten there more than six times in the last couple of years, I cannot think of any single dish that has ever been repeated”). “And it still feels like a cosy neighbourhood restaurant”, although on the downside “tables are very small and crammed too close together”.
“What a fascinating dining experience – if it wasn’t so hyped, I would probably have enjoyed it even more!” This “tiny” Hackney yearling has instantly won gigantic acclaim for “heavenly, delicate and inventive” cuisine, bringing a “substantial Asian influence onto modern British ideas”. “Space is very tight” and though “you get to know your fellow diners intimately” the end result seems “so special, cosy and romantic” to most reporters – “it’s like eating in your friend’s front room, it just turns out your friend is a top chef!”. Founding chef Elizabeth Allen moved on in February 2017 to open Shibui (see also), but early reports say “nothing has been lost from the cooking here during the change”. See also Magpie.
“A great little addition to the London dining scene” – this “small, cramped-but-magical” room with about 26 covers behind a “tiny Hackney shopfront” offers “an ever-changing, weekly set menu”. “The absence of choice is abated by the spectacularly good cooking” from chef Elizabeth Allen – “truly innovative” (“we were reaching for Wikipedia to understand the ingredients”) but “well thought-out”, “surprising and delightful”.
|Wine per bottle||£33.00|
52 Wilton Way, London, E8 1BG
|Wednesday||6 pm-11 pm|
|Thursday||6 pm-11 pm|
|Friday||1 pm-2:30 pm, 6 pm-11 pm|
|Saturday||1 pm-2:30 pm, 6 pm-11 pm|
|Sunday||1 pm-2:30 pm, 6 pm-11 pm|