The Guardian
Grace Dent’s review this week took her to where Mallow, the vegan Borough restaurant from the team behind Mildreds, has opened a sibling.
The new branch is “a bright, light, glass-fronted, chic, youthful modern brasserie” with a “varied, plant-based, all-day, thoughtfully written list that makes my heart go boom”.
“It ransacks the cuisines of the world, taking flavours, dishes and cooking styles from every corner, and makes them all vegan without even mentioning the dreaded V word.” (“Notably, it also offers a garlic- and onion-free menu.”)
Grace “preferred the small plates to the big ones, because they’re where much of the ingenuity lies”, and the “main courses are what you could call hearty”.
Grace Dent - 2023-07-24
