The Observer
Jay Rayner discovered “as exciting a new restaurant as I’ve encountered in a long while” at ex-Simpsons chef Dan Sweet’s crowdfunded transformation of his former takeaway Qbox on Harborne high street.
It’s a tiny place with just 20 seats and a short menu, “but it bursts with huge
flavours, big ideas and massive ambition. Dinner here was an introduction to a storming talent announcing itself to the world, one clever, delicious, well- priced dish at a time.”
The chef’s rare technical skills and good taste were displayed in the “soft,
creamy, rich and deep liquor” that formed the basis of a white soup of
caramelised onions, “as pale and interesting as a Dior model and just as
poised”, and again in a celeriac cream sauce, “this time with a pointillist
explosion of herb oil”, combined with slabs of salt-baked then roasted
celeriac.
