The Guardian
Grace Dent sang the praises of “a small regional indie doing its very best in rather weird times”: chef Paul Wendholt’s ambitious set menu outfit (eight courses plus extras for £90) closed down for four months last year due to financial pressures – which shows we must “use these places or lose them”.
Even the “I just want me dinner” brigade that are put off by the idea of a tasting menu as “too faffy, too fiddly” might find their heart softening at Wendholt’s “good, thoughtful, clever cooking that errs on the side of tasty rather than flippant”, from the warm-up snack of whipped Montgomery cheddar in a fluted tartlet.
Then came wild Suffolk bass, treacle-cured pork and Herdwick lamb – the strongest of the savoury courses. Among the sweet dishes was an inventive creation involving Colchester cherries, both cooked and preserved, something biscuity, something creamy and something with a whiff of amaretto. “It doesn’t look like much on the plate – a collapsed Jenga of dessert ideas – but it is utterly fabulous.”
Grace Dent - 2026-09-06
Drinks
Extras
