Evening Standard
David Ellis awarded a hearty thumbs-up to this “statement of intent” from Martin Williams, the new CEO of Evolv, who wants to revive the glamour of the group’s origins under Sir Terence Conran – and has started by investing in the food rather than the décor of what used to be called the New Street Grill.
It is now “a restaurant of bone marrow crumpets, Welsh rarebit fries, of steaks and lamb chops, suet puddings and whole pig heads” where “the instinct is to do the classics: martinis with oysters, a couple of starters, steak and big boy Burgundies.”
The steak is presented on a trolley, a move David reckons will delight steak nerds (although being offered a choice of knives was a bit gimmicky), and once cooked “the fillet was a pile of silk and velvet, the ribeye a carnivorous gentle giant of rendered fat, earthy as though it had not come from a cow but instead had been mined”. It could even, David thought, lay a claim to be the best steak in London.
David Ellis - 2025-10-12
