The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell visited a revived 14th-century inn in Suffolk where he eulogised a “staggeringly good” pie of Herefordshire beef stewed for hours in local ale as “literally the finest pie I can remember eating”.
Sea bream ceviche, raviolo, Scotch egg, wild mushroom croquette and roast partridge were all delicious, too, but William’s enjoyment was marred by “flouncy menu writing” and a manager who “shimmers” and “pirouettes” from the bar.
“The chef, who has great talent, ought to rein in his fine dining instincts to suit the surroundings” – “just call those pie accompaniments mash and gravy” (not Bordelaise sauce and pomme purée).
William Sitwell - 2025-03-16
