The Times
Jay Rayner visited a pub on the outskirts of Manchester founded by Hong Kong exiles Priscilla and Brian Hung, who shifted to the UK following the Chinese takeover and named their pub after Harcourt Road, the focal point of the doomed pro-democracy Umbrella Revolution in 2014.
The food is “subtly and sweetly different to the standard Cantonese repertoire”, with ingredients such as butter and condensed milk, and prawn toast with salted egg yolk. And with a mood that is “profoundly pub” – beer, board games, Black Country pork scratchings – the place feels like “a slab of Chinese culture cemented into a cornerstone of British tradition”.
The food, Jay noted with approval, is “not refined. It’s not delicate. It’s solid and comforting; cooking that makes a damp and difficult day so much easier. It’s precision engineered to go with a pint.”
Jay Rayner - 2025-04-06
Drinks
Extras
